Southern Okanagan Charm
From Osoyoos and the Golden Mile Bench to
Black Sage Road, the warm-climate South Okanagan Valley
is British Columbia’s most alluring wine region.
By Cole Danehower
Andrea Johnson photo
The looming bulk of McIntyre Bluff is the
gateway to the charms of the South Okanagan
Valley. The spectacular landmark delineates the appellation’s two primary growing regions. Looking southward from Blue Mountain Vineyard, the hospitably warm and viticulturally fecund
lands of the South Okanagan invite exploration.
Stand in a vineyard along the Golden Mile Bench or on the slopes surrounding Osoyoos Lake in the southern part of the Okanagan Valley appellation, and you could be excused for thinking you were somewhere in the Columbia Valley.
For Americans unused to British Columbia’s wine country, it is eye-opening to discover that the bulk
of the province’s wine grapes are grown in a desert
ecology. It shouldn’t be so surprising. It is the vast drainage of the Columbia River that defines the majority of the Pacific Northwest’s wine countries, and the Okanagan Valley is the northernmost extension of that drainage, sharing the same eco-region as 80% of the Northwest’s wine appellations.
The Okanagan Valley is the heart of British Columbia’s fine wine industry, pumping 90% of the province’s production into the eager market for local wines. And within the appellation itself, it is the most southerly portion, roughly from the village of Okanagan Falls to the U.S./Canada border, where the bulk of the grapes for B.C.’s wines are grown.
In our last issue we stopped at the cooler-climate Naramata Bench outside of Penticton (see “The Cool Factor: Touring the North Okanagan Valley” in the July/August 2010 issue of Northwest Palate). Now it’s time to head toward the warmer reaches of South Okanagan Valley wine country.
Okanagan Falls Area
After visiting the wineries of the North Okanagan, most travelers will keep along the Highway 97 artery to head south. Not us. Instead, we take South Main Street out of Penticton for an unhurried and scenic drive along the east side of Skaha Lake, where the road becomes Eastside Drive (also known as Lakeside Road).
Toward the south end of the lake, a stop at Blasted Church Vineyards is in order. With eccentric wine labels that play off the winery’s memorable name (in 1929 a group of men exploded a small amount of dynamite inside an old local church to loosen the nails and make it easier to disassemble and transport), it might be easy to dismiss the wines as marketing gimmicks. Don’t.
Blasted Church’s wide array of wines are well-made, including an excellent Pinot Gris, an eclectic white blend called Mixed Blessings, and an unusual wine made from the aromatic Chardonnay musqué clone. The attractive and intimate tasting room also offers an only-at-the-winery Amen bottling, which changes each year.
A bit further south (and only 45 minutes north of the border), along the slopes above the village of Okanagan Falls overlooking Vaseux Lake, Blue Mountain Vineyard and Cellars makes wines as spectacular as the views from their vines. The Mavety family has farmed this land with a blend of organic and biodynamic practices since the 1970s, and today produces highly sought-after wines from cool-climate varieties.
Of special note are Blue Mountain’s sparkling wines and Pinot Noirs. Their Brut and Brut Rosé are nothing short of spectacular,
and their Reserve Pinot Noir is without a doubt one of the finest made anywhere in the Northwest (not just Canada!). They are also widely respected for their Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, and Grenache wines—this is a must-visit.
On the other side of the lake, the drive up to See Ya Later Ranch is rich with scenic views. The wines playfully honor the original owner’s love for dogs (be sure to park in the Barking Lot), and the tasting room is located in a lovingly restored heritage building that reflects the site’s history.
Farming some of the oldest vinifera vines in the province—and the largest plantings of Gewürztraminer in North America—See Ya Later Ranch offers a variety of wines. The succulent Gewürzes are exceptional, but don’t miss their Brut sparkling wine, Pinot Noir, Riesling, or the premium Ping Meritage red blend.
If you can tear yourself away from the tasting room veranda’s vista, it is time to get back on Highway 97 and drive past McIntyre Bluff, the climatological dividing line between the appellation’s cool and warm regions. Between here and the U.S. lies desert.
Oliver and the Warm South
Just north of Oliver (which calls itself the Wine Capital of Canada), the Jackson-Triggs Vintners tasting room is a great place to get started. The western outpost of one of Canada’s largest wine companies, the locally produced wines include a wide array of varieties and labels. Of particular note are the Proprietors’ Grand Reserve Shiraz and White Meritage, as well as their SunRock Vineyard single varieties.
In the valley south of Oliver, some of the most distinctive vineyards in the Okanagan Valley are to be found. The area is deeply arid and very warm during the growing season, resulting in big, concentrated wines.
Along the benches on the west side of the Okanagan River Canal that divides the valley floor is the Golden Mile subregion. Let’s start on a hillside off Road #7 from Highway 97 at Tinhorn Creek.
Canada’s first carbon neutral winery, Tinhorn Creek farms 150 acres of vineyard on both sides of the valley. General manager Kenn Oldfield and winemaker Sandra Oldfield give the beautiful winery and vineyards a distinctly personal, family feel, which follows through in their supple, accessible, generous wines‚ especially their signature Oldfield Series of single-varietal wines and 2Bench blends. A leader in sustainability and the survivability of wildlife, including participating in an endangered snake protection program, Tinhorn Creek takes stewardship as seriously as its winemaking.
At the end of the next road (Road #8, of course), Hester Creek farms some of the oldest vines in the Okanagan Valley and sports one of the newest winery buildings, including a spacious tasting room. Winemaker Robert Summers is only beginning to exploit the fruits of new investment and tools, but already the Hester Creek unoaked white wines (especially Pinot Gris) and Reserve Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot are top-notch showcases of Golden Mile terroir.
A little further south, Road 13 Winery & Vineyard is fast becoming a force in Okanagan wine. Pam and Mick Luckhurst purchased the former Golden Mile Cellars, complete with its castle-like winery building and tasting room, in 2003 without significant wine experience of their own. They were fast learners. They hired winemaker Michael Bartier, changed the winery’s name to Road 13, and are growing some of the best wines in the region. Try their Jackpot Pinot Noir and Old Vines Chenin Blanc to see what quality is all about, or their series of excellent Honest John’s blends.
The opposite, east, side of the valley is known as the Black Sage Road bench, and roughly parallels the Golden Mile. Vines here get stronger afternoon sun and are planted on deep sand and gravel benches, yielding particularly rich wines.
Le Vieux Pin is a relatively new boutique winery that produces expressive wines from sustainable and dry-farmed vines (unusual for the area). The attractive French-style winery is intimate and fun, while the wines are full and rich. Their Périgée Pinot Noir is succulent and dense, and the Apogée Merlot is lush and fruity. And though they don’t make much of either, their Sauvignon Blanc and Gewürztraminer are impressive and always in demand.
Nearby, one of British Columbia’s first cult wineries is worth a pre-arranged visit. Black Hills Estate Winery requires reservations for its tasting room, but the sleekly designed building combined with the undeniable power of their signature Nota Bene red blend makes the winery a worthy destination. Also be sure to try the Alibi white blend and the most unusual Carmenere.
For a more informal tasting, Desert Hills Estate Winery is a good choice. The affable Randy Toor and his brother Jesse manage the family wine business with an infectious enthusiasm. Their wines are cleanly made with focused flavors. The Syrah in particular is a robust wine with jammy fruit and spicy edges. The Gamay is an unusual variety for the area and is a pleasurable find for its sweet, bright, blackberry flavor.
At the south end of Black Sage Road, Burrowing Owl Estate Winery looms over the land as a beacon for wine-seeking travelers. Jim Wyse opened Burrowing Owl in 1998 and has added amenities continually. The 60-seat Sonora Room fine dining restaurant is a local standout, as is the luxurious 11-room guesthouse with 25-meter swimming pool. Plus, Burrowing Owl makes superb wine. The Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir are marvelous, as are the complex, intense Syrah, a dense and deliciously age-worthy Meritage blend, and a spicy Cabernet Franc, among other very good wines.
Osoyoos
The furthermost southern end of the Okanagan Valley appellation is taken up by the benches of land that rise from Okanagan Lake on the Canadian side of the border. Here can be found one of the most unique wineries in North America: the first Native-owned and operated winery.
Nk’Mip Cellars (pronounced “in-ka-meep”) takes advantage of developed vineyards and is part of the Osoyoos Indian Band’s long-term plan, which includes the adjoining Spirit Ridge Vineyard Resort & Spa. Winemaker Randy Picton crafts excellent, bright, fresh Pinot Blanc, Riesling, and Chardonnay in a separate White Fermentation Room, and his reds in a Red Fermentation Room. Try the top-of-the-line Qwam Qwmt wines (translated as “achieving excellence”), especially the powerful Syrah, elegant Merlot, and excellent Pinot Noir.
Just east of town, perhaps the southernmost of the appellation’s wineries, Twisted Tree Vineyards and Winery is our last stop (any further south and we’d be in the U.S.). This boutique winery has established quite the reputation for their estate-grown Viognier-Roussanne blend, a rare-for-B.C. Tempranillo, a dense Syrah, and even a stylish Pinot Noir.
If you’ve been able to take our full, two-part tour of the Okanagan Valley, then you can have little doubt that this wine country offers a combination of spectacular scenery, unmatched wine quality, and layers of culinary experience that is unmatched in any other Northwest wine region. If you haven’t yet been there, then what are you waiting for?
Okanagan Falls AreaBlasted Church Vineyards Blue Mountain Vineyard and Cellars See Ya Later Ranch |
Oliver & the Warm SouthBlack Hills Estate Winery Burrowing Owl Estate Winery Desert Hills Estate Winery Hester Creek Jackson-Triggs Vintners Road 13 Winery & Vineyard Tinhorn Creek Le Vieux Pin |
OsoyoosNk’Mip Cellars Twisted Tree Vineyards and Winery |
Dining & Lodging in the South Okanagan ValleyCampo Marina Café and Restaurant Guest House at Burrowing Owl Sonora Room Spirit Ridge Vineyard Resort & Spa Walnut Beach Resort Watermark Beach Resort Villa Guest Suites |
